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Tag: spain

  • Top Reasons to Visit Spain’s Basque Region

    When planning a trip to Spain, many travelers focus on well-known cities like Madrid, Seville or Barcelona. While I have thoroughly enjoyed my travels in each of those places, when it comes to visiting Spain, my heart belongs to the Basque region. The Basque region of Spain (France has one, too) is located on the northwestern coast along the Bay of Biscay. Here are some reasons why you should check it out.

    Less Touristy

    While it’s true that some places in the Basque region attract crowds of tourists (like the surf town of Mundaca during competition season), the region as a whole is much less crowded than some of the more popular tourist attractions in Spain. As a result it is easier to find affordable and eco-friendly accommodations and integrate into the daily lifestyle of this relaxed region.

    Relaxed Pace

    The Basque region is made up mostly of smaller cities and towns that offer a relaxed pace to residents and tourists alike. The beach cities of Gorliz and Plentzia are where the Spanish go on vacation. The major attraction in both these towns is, of course, the beach. You can also venture into Plentzia’s old quarter, an area filled with fascinating architecture that reflects the history of the region. I recommend stopping by the Muxika-Butron tower and the old church.

    A fishing town founded in 1239,  Bermeo is also a wonderful place to spend an afternoon doing some light sightseeing. The town’s attractions include the impressive arch of San Juan (dating back to the 14th century) and the nearby historic quarter, full of more medieval structures, traditional fishermen’s houses, quaint town squares, and the old port. This isn’t an “official attraction,” but I’ll let you in on a little secret– just around the corner from the port there is a mass of large rocks that are perfect for sunbathing and jumping off of to take a dip in the water.

    Excellent Cuisine

    If you enjoy fresh seafood, then you’ll be in heaven in the Basque region. And since most of the best seafood restaurants cater to locals, prices are not as high as one might expect. If you get to Bermeo,  I recommend stopping at Jokin, a traditional Basque restaurant with a great view of the port. I had some amazing squid ink pasta there one sunny afternoon.

    Some of my best culinary memories of the Basque region are of Bilbao (the region’s capital and largest city). Head to the Casco Viejo (older part of the city) around 4pm when the bars put out their pintxos. Pintxos are light appetizers, typically served on small wedges of fresh bread. One of my favorites was the traditional tortilla, made with eggs, potatoes, and plenty of oil. Most of the smaller bars we visited in Bilbao offered pintxos on the honor system. We helped ourselves to the various selections set out on the bar and then paid 1 euro per pintxo before we left. Of course, you’ll need to wash down these savory treats with something cold. Regional specialty drinks include calimotxos (cola mixed with red wine) and picas (light beer mixed with lemonade).

    If you have a sweet tooth, be sure to stop by Chocolates de Mendaro in Bilbao for some rich chocolates, pastries and coffee. This local company, which has been in business since 1850, serves both traditional and cutting-edge sweets (all made with cocoa).

    Jeff Koons' "Puppy" welcomes visitors to the Bilbao Guggenheim.

    Rich Culture

    The entire Basque region has a rich history and culture. However, when I was there I was most focused on the arts scene. One of the best known museums in Europe is the Bilbao Guggenheim. The museum opened in 1997 and to date, the museum has welcomed over 12 million visitors. You can’t miss the building itself, which was designed by world-renown architect Frank Gehry. The architecture is based on the seaside culture of Bilbao, with undulating metal “waves” that reflect the light and lead visitors toward the main entrance. The museum features work by a variety of 20th/21st century artists (Yves Klein, Willem de Kooning, Robert Motherwell, Robert Rauschenberg, Andy Warhol, to name a few).

    Once you get out into some of the Basque region’s smaller towns, you’ll find that most of the history centers on maritime culture and the Spanish Civil War, which greatly affected the region– also quite fascinating.

  • Shop for Food and Souvenirs on the Cheap at European Markets

    Whether you’re looking for supplies for a picnic lunch or unique (and affordable) souvenirs to bring home, you’re sure to find them at one an outdoor European market.

    The market scene (food markets, flea markets, craft markets, etc.) is as diverse as the cities in which they are located. Here are overviews of some of the most famous markets in Europe and what you can expect to find there. Aix-en-Provence, France The southern (Provençal) French city of Aix-en-Provence Provençal  is home to some of the most famous markets in France. The grands marchés (big markets) in Aix take place three times a week (on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays) in the city’s two main squares, Place des Prêcheurs and Place de la Madeleine, and in the quartiers (neighborhoods) of Encagnane and of the Jas de Bouffan. Here you can find loads of food (bread, pastries, meats, cheese, fruits and vegetables) traditional Provençal goods like olives, soaps, jewelry, clothing, art, and Provençal textiles at much more affordable prices than you would in shops aimed at tourists.  In addition to the grands marchés, Aix has several specialty markets.  At Place de l’Hôtel de Ville (opposite the town hall,) every Tuesday Thursday and Saturday there is a large flower market. There is a vintage clothing and accessories market on the Cours Mirabeau (Aix’s main street) on Tuesday and Thursday. More clothing and antiques can be found at the Place de Verdun in front of the Palais de Justice on Saturdays. Aix’s antique and second-hand book fair is held on the 1st Sunday of each month from 9 am to 6 pm at Place de l’Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall square). Flohmarkt am Mauerpark, Berlin [caption id="attachment_5047" align="alignright" width="300" caption="The markets of Aix-en-Provence are a great place to shop for food and authentic souvenirs. "][/caption] Berlin is known for its lively flea market scene. One of the most popular is flohmarkt (“flea market”) am Mauerpark, which is open on Sundays from 8am - 6pm. Flohmarkt am Mauerpark is located in Prenzlauer Berg, about a block down from and across the street from the famous Mauerpark (known for its Berlin Wall memorial). The market is near to the Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion M10 tram stop (formerly Oderberger Straße).  Flohmarkt am Mauerpark is a great place to purchase bikes, hats, vintage sunglasses, old photo albums (with the photos still inside), and mid-century home accessories and vintage jewelry. It’s also a great place to go for lunch. There are several food stalls and an outdoor seating area with a small stage where local performers entertain shoppers. I strongly recommend going directly to the Turkish food stand and ordering the Turkish sampler plate (loaded with fresh veggies, herbed potatoes, lamb and onions) and grabbing a cup of German gluhwein (spiced wine with rum) from the beverage booth. Seville, Spain Seville has some of the most vibrant markets in Europe. Three of the most popular are Mercadillo del Duque la Magdalena, Mercadillo Filatélico and Mercadillo de los Jueves. Mercadillo del Duque la Magdalena, Plaza del Duque / Plaza de la Magdalena, Thursday to Sunday – 10am to 9pm. Mercadillo del Duque la Magdalena is a great place to find reasonably-priced souvenirs. Head here to stock up on fashion and handmade jewelry, hats, scarves, bags, sunglasses, leather goods, soaps and perfumes. Mercadillo Filatélico, Plaza del Cabildo, Sundays 8pm to 3pm, This lively open-air market in Seville’s city center is a great place to spend a lazy Sunday browsing antiques, old coins, stamps, postcards and other collectibles. Mercadillo de los Jueves, Feria, Alameda de Hércules, Thursdays – 7am to 3pm One of Seville’s oldest open-air markets, Mercadillo de los Jueves, located in the Calle Feria, is a great place to find collectibles and antiques, as well as art and used books.

  • Surfing France and Spain on a Budget

    There are many surfers out there who dream of “surfing the world,” yet perhaps think they can’t afford it.

    To them I say “think again.” With some savvy financial planning and research, it’s possible to take yourself in a surf tour of Western Europe without breaking the bank. Here are some renowned surf spots in France and Spain to consider: Mediterranean Coast (Toulon and Marseilles), France Located in the southwestern part of France, the nearby major cities of Toulon and Marseilles offer some great surf breaks. Major surf championships are hosted in this area each year. It is relatively affordable to stay in either one of these cities. Like most large European cities, there are a variety of lodging options in various price points. There are several hostels in both Marseilles and Toulon, as well as a variety of 1-2 start hotels. It should come as no surprise that many surfers are also fans of couch surfing. I’ve known several people who have had great experiences with this frugal travel practice. Boards can be rented (if you don’t want to ship your own) and supplies purchased at one of several surf shops in the area, including Freestyle Surf Shop in St. Cyr sur Mer, Aloha Surf Shop in Toulon or Massilia Surf Shop in Marseilles. Biarritz (and surrounding areas), France Biarritz is located on France’s western coast (on the Atlantic Ocean). In 1957, surfers from California who were traveling through Europe first discovered the impressive waves of Biarritz and surrounding towns like Saint-Raphael and Saint Jean de Luz. Biarritz’s first surf club was established in 1959, making surfing became a large part of the local culture. [caption id="attachment_4724" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Surf School in Biarritz"]biarritz france photo[/caption] Today, Biarritz is considered one of the unofficial “surf capitals” of Europe. It is possible to rent a board right on Biarritz's main beach, and there are special areas designated for surfers (away from the swimming and lounging crowd). The international Biarritz Surf Festival takes place here each July. Tens of thousands of visitors flock here to witness the big names of longboard surfing do their thing. There are also surf shops located in Saint-Raphael and Saint Jean de Luz that offer rentals and lessons. Because Biarritz is also an upscale tourist area, finding discount deals on travel related expenses (i.e., lodging) is a bit more difficult than in the other areas mentioned in this post, but definitely not impossible. Check out Surf Hostel Bed and Breakfast, for example. Mundaka, Spain The small fishing village of Mundaka (located in Spain’s Basque region) is very popular surf spot. Situated on the Bay of Biscay, Mundaka welcomes some of the largest waves in all of Europe. The surf season lasts from September-February and the water is packed with experienced surfers during this time. Mundaka hosts the Billabong Pro competition each December. Unlike Marseilles and Biarriz (which are both easily accessible by train), Mundaka is a bit harder to get to. It is about 25 miles from the city of Bilbao (the nearest large city). There are also several (inexpensive buses a day that go from both Bilbao and Bermeo to Mudaka. There are several lodging options in Mundaka for surfers on a budget. The Portuondo campground (00 34 94 687 67 00 www.campingportuondo.com) is located near the cemetery on your way in to town. There are three inexpensive hotels in town: Hotel Mundaka (00 34 94 687 67 00), Hotel El Puerto (00 34 94 687 67 25), Hotel Atalaya (00 34 94 687 68 88). There are also a variety of pensiones in the nearby town of Guernika. Enjoy planning (and going on) your more affordable European surf adventure!